Fiume is truly beautiful. Sad, tired, worn out, but still intriguing and fascinating, despite every corner, every alley, every forgotten or ignored building crying out for attention and help. To tell the truth, some, mainly used as restaurants/trattorias/fast-food, shops or offices, have been recovered and revalued. Many others, however, silently wait their turn, if it ever comes. As you pass by it is difficult to imagine them teeming with people circulating in their atriums, who stop to chat or read the paper in the elegant cafés, who get drunk on the Fiume air and don't want to leave. In fact, that's exactly how the...